Thursday, February 28, 2013


All homes need humidity control. In the southern climates, they need it year round. There is a unit for every size home. From compact 70 pint unit perfect for town homes, condominiums and homes with a closet HVAC system to 135 pint unit for homes that are 4,000 square feet or more. Home owners can obtain whole-home protection and performance of central de-humidification.
Air conditioning alone can't usually satisfy your home's humidity requirements. Your air conditioning system is designed to control temperature, not humidity, and only removes humidity as a byproduct of cooling. During the spring and fall seasons when it’s still cool outside but damp inside, your air conditioning isn’t running and your house is uncomfortable — you may need a Whole-Home Dehumidifier.
Installed as part of your home's heating and cooling system, home central dehumidifiers pull air from every room in your home through the return ducts. It removes the moisture and then sends dry air back throughout your home. It works in conjunction with your air conditioner to efficiently balance the humidity levels in your home, but can also work independently on days when you don't need the air conditioner.
A Whole-House Dehumidifier works equally well in new or existing homes, and is truly the complete solution for your home’s excess indoor humidity problems.
Why Do I Need a Whole-House Dehumidifier?
Have you ever experienced any of the following uncomfortable and/or unhealthy conditions:
  • Do you have trouble sleeping at night due to clammy skin or stuffiness in the air?
  • Have you ever reduced the temperature setting because you're uncomfortable with the stuffy feeling?
  • Have your floors or other surfaces ever felt sticky or “sweaty”?
  • Are you concerned with mold and mildew growth in your home?
  • Do you have musty odors or smells in any area of your home?
  • Do you have condensation on your water pipes?
  • Have you seen wet stains on walls or ceilings?
  • Do you or a family member have allergies (over-moist air can encourage the growth of mold, bacteria, and dust mites—three commonly known household allergens).
Experiencing any of the above conditions can make sleeping and even daily activities miserable — plus some conditions can be hazardous to your family’s health or your home’s furnishings.
FACT: Did you know that dust mites (and their waste products) are one of the most common triggers for allergies and asthma? The Environmental Protection Agency advises keeping your home’s relative humidity between 30-50% to avoid dust mite infestation.
“Molds are commonly found in outdoor air. However, any house can develop a mold problem given the right conditions. You might not see it growing on the walls, but it may still be present in your home. Molds require two factors to grow indoors: (1) free moisture that can occur in the form of relative humidity above 50 percent.

Tuesday, February 26, 2013


We found senior citizen volunteers who allowed us to wire their homes with hidden cameras to see what would happen when we responded to one of the ads. Even we were stunned by what we saw. Not only did our cameras catch the technicians scamming nearly $500 from our volunteer, they actually left the house in worse condition than before they arrived.
A few weeks later, we asked our volunteer to make another appointment, this time to have her furnace cleaned. And this time, Chris Hansen was there to let the technicians know our cameras had recorded their scam, and to see what they had to say.
Early on, we learned reporting this story wouldn't be easy. We began by digging into one company, and then another, and then the histories of some of the people behind them. We found many of the businesses opened up shop only to disappear within a matter of months, but would then appear again under a different name. Sometimes, it was even hard to determine exactly who owned many of them. The paper trail left behind was limited and sometimes inaccurate. One business was registered using the name of the real owner's dead stepbrother. Another was registered in the name of an owner's bodyguard. Several to convicted felons, one a killer.
But our reporting led us to one revealing fact: dozens of the rogue businesses all across the country were run by a rotating list of the same individuals who kept popping up over and over again.
As we began to connect the dots, we saw that some attorneys general and judges have ordered these companies to be shut down, forbidden their owners from doing business in their states, and ordered them to pay hundreds of thousands of dollars in damages. But most of the time, the scammers simply took off to set up shop in another state.
Bottom line: If you think you need your air ducts cleaned, check with both the Better Business Bureau and the National Air Duct Cleaners Association before answering the cheap ad in the newspaper.
Watch this Web-exclusive video of Chris Hansen confronting air duct cleaners:



Under the best conditions using chemicals indors for cleaning purposes is an IAQ concern. Air duct cleaning especially flex duct cleaning has always pose integrity problems. One cannot tell if any degree of cleaning is achieved or whether there has been damage to the duct inner linner.

Air-conditioning technicians are not trained to use chemicals. Considering the 3 months training most of today's technicians undertake, they are not trained for the basics of air-conditioning to add chemical use to their work details.

The under mentioned chemical is not intended to be used for air-conditioning duct work. Air-conditioning companies are using the chemical to clean interior duct work without regard for the manufacturers specifications for use.

Before employing the use of this or any other chemical for disinfecting ductwork I purpose obtaining the chemical to be used and verifying the chemical use with the manufacturer of the chemical.
Simple Green d Pro 5®
One-Step Disinfectant
Cleaner • Sanitizer • Fungicide* • Mildwestat • Virucide* • Deodorizer
DIRECTIONS – It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.
Dilution: 1:64 (2 oz. per gallon of water.)
Apply use-solution to hard, nonporous surfaces, thoroughly wetting surfaces, with a cloth, mop, sponge,
sprayer or by immersion. Treated surfaces must remain wet for 10 minutes. Wipe dry with a cloth,
sponge or mop or allow to air dry. For heavily soiled areas, pre-cleaning is recommended. For sprayer
applications, use a coarse spray device and spray 6-8 inches from surface; rub with brush, sponge or
cloth. Avoid breathing spray.
HEAVY DUTY CLEANING: 1:16 Mix 8 ounces of Simple Green d Pro 5 per gallon of water to clean
heavily soiled surfaces. Simple Green d Pro 5 will disfigure or remove floor finishes at this dilution ratio.
FOR CLEANING & SANITIZING: Equipment and utensils shall be thoroughly pre-flushed or pre-
scraped and when necessary, pre-soaked to remove gross food particles and soil.
1) Thoroughly wash equipment & utensils in hot detergent solution. (Crystal Simple Green with hot water is a
good choice.) 2) Rinse equipment & utensils thoroughly with clean water. 3) Sanitize equipment & utensils
by immersion in a use-solution of 2 oz. Simple Green d Pro 5 per 2-4 gallons of water (400 – 200 ppm
active quat) (or equivalent dilution) for at least 60-seconds at a temperature of 75°F. 4) For equipment &
utensils too large to sanitize by immersion, apply a use-solution of 2 oz. Simple Green d Pro 5 per 2-4
gallons of water (400 – 200 ppm active quat) (or equivalent dilution) by rinsing spraying or swabbing until
thoroughly wet. 5) Allow sanitized surface to drain and air dry. Do not rinse.
TO SANITIZE NON-FOOD CONTACT SURFACES: Mix ½ ounce of Simple Green d Pro 5 per gallon
of water to sanitize hard, non-porous surfaces. Treated surfaces must remain wet for 60 seconds. Wipe
or dry with a sponge, mop or cloth, or allow to air dry.
General Precautionary Information for in-use product (not concentrate):
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. IF IN EYES: Hold eye open and rinse slowly and gently
with water for 15-20 minutes. Remove contact lenses, if present, after first 5 minutes then continue
Octyl decyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.......................... . . . 1.65%
Dioctyl dimethyl ammonium chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.66%
Didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.99%
Alkyl (C14, 50%; C12, 40%; C10, 10%) dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride . . . 2.20%
For emergency response information call 800-255-3924
Labeled pursuant to the requirements of the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act
Degree of Hazard for Use-Solution Diluted and Used Per Label Instructions:
0- Reactivity

The number 2 indicates a health concern.

Monday, February 25, 2013


Heat pumps are the most efficient HVAC systems available today. In spite of the initial higher installation cost, heat pumps are very attractive when it comes to being efficient. Below is an introduction to Geo thermal technology.

Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs), sometimes referred to as Geo Exchange, earth-coupled, ground-source, or water-source heat pumps, have been in use since the late 1940s. They use the constant temperature of the earth as the exchange medium instead of the outside air temperature. This allows the system to reach fairly high efficiencies (300% to 600%) on the coldest winter nights, compared to 175% to 250% for air-source heat pumps on cool days.
Although many parts of the country experience seasonal temperature extremes – from scorching heat in the summer to sub-zero cold in the winter—a few feet below the earth's surface the ground remains at a relatively constant temperature. Depending on latitude, ground temperatures range from 45°F (7°C) to 75°F (21°C). Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. The GHP takes advantage of this by exchanging heat with the earth through a ground heat exchanger.
As with any heat pump, geothermal and water-source heat pumps are able to heat, cool, and, if so equipped, supply the house with hot water. Some models of geothermal systems are available with two-speed compressors and variable fans for more comfort and energy savings. Relative to air-source heat pumps, they are quieter, last longer, need little maintenance, and do not depend on the temperature of the outside air.
A dual-source heat pump combines an air-source heat pump with a geothermal heat pump. These appliances combine the best of both systems. Dual-source heat pumps have higher efficiency ratings than air-source units, but are not as efficient as geothermal units. The main advantage of dual-source systems is that they cost much less to install than a single geothermal unit, and work almost as well.
Even though the installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of an air-source system of the same heating and cooling capacity, the additional costs are returned to you in energy savings in 5 to 10 years. System life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop. There are approximately 50,000 geothermal heat pumps installed in the United States each year. For more information, go to:

Types of Geothermal Heat Pump Systems

There are four basic types of ground loop systems. Three of these – horizontal, vertical, and pond/lake – are closed-loop systems. The fourth type of system is the open-loop option. Which one of these is best depends on the climate, soil conditions, available land, and local installation costs at the site. All of these approaches can be used for residential and commercial building applications.
Closed-Loop Systems
Most closed-loop geothermal heat pumps circulate an antifreeze solution through a closed loop – usually made of plastic tubing – that is buried in the ground or submerged in water. A heat exchanger transfers heat between the refrigerant in the heat pump and the antifreeze solution in the closed loop. The loop can be in a horizontal, vertical, or pond/lake configuration.
One variant of this approach, called direct exchange, does not use a heat exchanger and instead pumps the refrigerant through copper tubing that is buried in the ground in a horizontal or vertical configuration. Direct exchange systems require a larger compressor and work best in moist soils (sometimes requiring additional irrigation to keep the soil moist), but you should avoid installing in soils corrosive to the copper tubing. Because these systems circulate refrigerant through the ground, local environmental regulations may prohibit their use in some locations.
This type of installation is generally most cost-effective for residential installations, particularly for new construction where sufficient land is available. It requires trenches at least four feet deep.
The most common layouts either use two pipes, one buried at six feet, and the other at four feet, or two pipes placed side-by-side at five feet in the ground in a two-foot wide trench. The Slinky™ method of looping pipe allows more pipe in a shorter trench, which cuts down on installation costs and makes horizontal installation possible in areas it would not be with conventional horizontal applications.
Large commercial buildings and schools often use vertical systems because the land area required for horizontal loops would be prohibitive. Vertical loops are also used where the soil is too shallow for trenching, and they minimize the disturbance to existing landscaping. For a vertical system, holes (approximately four inches in diameter) are drilled about 20 feet apart and 100 to 400 feet deep. Into these holes go two pipes that are connected at the bottom with a U-bend to form a loop. The vertical loops are connected with horizontal pipe (i.e., manifold), placed in trenches, and connected to the heat pump in the building
If the site has an adequate water body, this may be the lowest cost option. A supply line pipe is run underground from the building to the water and coiled into circles at least eight feet under the surface to prevent freezing. The coils should only be placed in a water source that meets minimum volume, depth, and quality criteria.
Open-Loop System
This type of system uses well or surface body water as the heat exchange fluid that circulates directly through the GHP system. Once it has circulated through the system, the water returns to the ground through the well, a recharge well, or surface discharge. This option is obviously practical only where there is an adequate supply of relatively clean water, and all local codes and regulations regarding groundwater discharge are met.
Hybrid Systems
Hybrid systems using several different geothermal resources, or a combination of a geothermal resource with outdoor air (i.e., a cooling tower), are another technology option. Hybrid approaches are particularly effective where cooling needs are significantly larger than heating needs. Where local geology permits, the "standing column well" is another option. In this variation of an open-loop system, one or more deep vertical wells is drilled. Water is drawn from the bottom of a standing column and returned to the top. During periods of peak heating and cooling, the system can bleed a portion of the return water rather than re injecting it all, causing water inflow to the column from the surrounding aquifer. The bleed cycle cools the column during heat rejection, heats it during heat extraction, and reduces the required bore depth.

Friday, February 8, 2013

Scams, scams and more scams.

Hi Jules

Thanks for your response,

Like i told you on my first mail. I am Head of Luggage/Baggage storage facilities
here in John F. Kennedy International Airport.

All i need from you is a full assurance on my share of 30% of the funds
because as soon as i finish with the arrangement, i will be flying to
your local airport with the Boxes to avoid any stress on transit till
i get to you for delivery and sharing of the funds as agreed.

You can call me on this phone 404-585-6080 or 404-418-7265 please all
our communication on phone should be brief because i don't want any of
my colleague to suspect me as you know that i am still in active

Though, i know that we don't supposed to do this as we supposed to
declare the content of the boxes and return the money to UN Office but
due to my financial situation now i have no other option than to do it
to save my future and the future of my family.

To avoid any mistake, Once again, you have to reconfirm your recent
address to me and the name of the nearest Airport to me, Your Full
Names and also a full written Guarantee of my Share of the total
funds because i will finalize every arrangement before 12pm tomorrow,
board a flight with the boxes to meet you.

Please,  i don't want to deal with any other person or party on this
transaction because i have to protect my legitimate service with
United Nation.

As soon as i conclude all arrangement tomorrow I will send my flight
schedule and a copy of my ID to you for facial identification upon my arrival
at your local airport

Waiting to hear from you.

Best Regards, and God Bless You.

Mr.Jack Zellman
Please farmilarise yourself with the profile of scams and how realistic they can apperar to be. These scams appear more authentic the more vulnerable you are.

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Posted on 2013-02-06 14:31:35

Myth associated with residential flex duct cleaning.
Duct cleaning has never been shown to actually prevent health problems. Neither do studies conclusively demonstrate that particle (e.g., dust) levels in homes or other structures increase because of dirty air ducts. This is because much of the dirt in air ducts adheres to duct surfaces and does not necessarily enter the living space. It is important to keep in mind that dirty air ducts are only one of many possible sources of particles that are present in homes. Pollutants that enter the home  both from outdoors and indoor activities such as cooking, cleaning, smoking, or just moving around can cause greater exposure to contaminants than dirty air ducts. Moreover, there is no evidence that a light amount of household dust or other particulate matter in air ducts poses any risk to your health.
You should consider having the air ducts in your home replaced if:
There is substantial visible mold growth present in hard surface (e.g., sheet metal) ducts or on other components of your heating and cooling system. There are several important points to understand concerning mold detection in duct systems:
Many sections of your heating and cooling system may not be accessible for a visible inspection, so ask the service provider to show you any mold they say exists. Remember mold like growth does not indicate harmful mold. Some mold growth may be caused by persistent moisture exposed to friendly temperature where humidity is at a certain level.
You should be aware that although a substance may look like mold, a positive determination of whether it is mold can be made only by an expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology laboratories can tell you whether a substance sent to them on a clear strip of sticky household tape is mold or just something that resembles it.
If you have insulated air ducts and the insulation gets wet or moldy it should be removed and replaced as it cannot be effectively cleaned. Wet flex duct should always be replaced. If the conditions causing the mold growth in the first place are not corrected, mold growth will recur.
If ducts are infested with vermin (e.g. rodents or insects); or ducts are clogged with excessive amounts of dust and debris and/or particles are actually released into the home from your supply registers the duct section should be replaced.
If any of the conditions identified above exists, it usually suggests one or more underlying causes. Prior to any retrofitting, or replacing of your ducts, the cause or causes must be corrected or else the problem will likely recur.
Some research suggests that cleaning heating and cooling system components (e.g., cooling coils, fans and heat exchangers) may improve the efficiency of your system, resulting in a longer operating life, as well as some energy and maintenance cost savings. However, little evidence exists that cleaning only the ducts will improve the efficiency of the system. You may consider having your air ducts cleaned simply because it seems logical that air ducts will get dirty over time and should be occasionally cleaned. Provided that the cleaning can be done in the first place, no evidence suggests that such cleaning would be detrimental. Industry does not recommend that the air ducts be cleaned routinely, but only as needed. Industry does, however, recommend that if you have a fuel burning furnace, stove or fireplace, they be inspected for proper functioning and serviced before each heating season to protect against carbon monoxide poisoning. If you decide to have your air ducts cleaned, take the same consumer precautions you normally would in assessing the service provider’s competence and reliability.
Air duct cleaning service providers may tell you that they need to apply a chemical biocide to the inside of your ducts as a means to kill bacteria (germs) and fungi (mold) and prevent future biological growth. They may also propose the applications of a “sealant” to prevent dust and dirt particles from being released into the air or to seal air leaks. You should fully understand the pros and cons of permitting application of chemical biocides or sealants. While the targeted use of chemical biocides and sealants may be appropriate under specific circumstances, research has not demonstrated their effectiveness in duct cleaning or their potential adverse health effects. No chemical biocides are currently registered by EPA for use in internally-insulated air duct system. Whether on not you decide to have the air ducts in your home cleaned, preventing water and dirt from entering the system is the most effective way to prevent contamination.
Rigid flex duct use in residential applications is constructed using an interior lining made out of very thin plastic material. A metal coil is wound over the plastic for strength. Insulation fiber glass covers the plastic and metal assembly. A sheaving material of aluminum foil type material completes the external material of the duct.
The duct is connected to the plenums of the system and forms the air delivery system. The black plastic material seen in the photo is extremely thin and very easily damaged. That any company would advertise flex duct cleaning as being either practical or necessary is beyond common sense. Just peep into your attic witness how the duct is installed with twists and turns, into boxes and wyes and other connections and you would appreciate how ridiculous it is to try cleaning installed flex ducts.

Flex duct showing basic construction.
Any one offering to spray chemicals into your HVAC system is putting the life of your family and yourself at risk. I have not found any chemical writeup on the market specifically designed for cleaning air ducts. I am not comfortable with 805 of persons involved with repairing HVAC units on the basis of trade knowledge. I am literally frightened of persons without knowledge of chemical dangers using chemicals to clean ducts.